Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a prestigious roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city comes as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and vibrant city – the capital of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children do not want to master the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to learn these narratives and travel to the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
